GUIDE COVERING A BIO FIREPLACE (OR BIOETHANOL FIREPLACE) WITH PLASTERBOARD

Here are easy step-by-step instructions for creating a structure or lining a bio-fireplace (or bio-ethanol fireplace) with plasterboard:

Preparation:

• Lay corrugated cardboard and cover sheets or, alternatively, a felt cloth on the ground to protect the flooring;

• Draw a project on paper, then proceeding with a professional meter to calculate the measurements around the bio-fireplace (height, width and depth of the structure to be created) and the subsequent transfer of the data on the sheet itself, also choosing the style of the structure that it is intended to be realized;

First Phase:

• Take the aluminum "guide" profiles and with a felt-tip pen write down the measurements calculated around the base of the bio-fireplace (which represent the width and depth of the structure);

• Using specific scissors for aluminum, cut the profiles according to the marked measurements;

• Fix the “guide” profiles around the bio-fireplace with double-sided adhesive resistant to high temperatures or with specific plugs;

• Using a laser or a plumb line, trace the same measurements taken at the base also on the ceiling and proceed to cut the same number of “guide” profiles. N.B: the structure may not reach the ceiling; in this case you will have to proceed differently by studying a solution in the middle of the wall;

• Fix the “guide” profiles to the ceiling with steel anchors with screw and washer diameter 8 at least 4 cm long. N.B: carefully evaluate what type of ceiling material you have before choosing the type of dowel;

Second phase:

• Now, with a professional meter, the height of the structure will be calculated following the initial project and the measurements will be reported on the aluminum "upright" profiles;

• Proceed to cut the vertical "upright" profiles with a professional scissors for aluminum;

• Attach to each other with 4.2x13 flat head teks screws (or with punching pliers) by inserting the vertical "upright" profiles inside the "guide" profiles previously fixed both to the base and to the ceiling, thus creating the skeleton of the coating structure;

Third Phase:

• Fill the cavity of the profiles with insulating material (see the article below: "deepening") forming a protective layer between the chimney and the outside;

• Take the specific plasterboard sheets for fire resistance works;

• Transfer the measurements calculated at the beginning of the project on paper, now verifying them with the created structure, on the plasterboard sheets and draw on them, with a carpenter's pencil, the shapes of the walls;

• Proceed now, with a professional cutter, to cut the shapes;

• Attach the pre-shaped sheets to the profiles with self-tapping screws 3.5x25 with the help of a screwdriver drill with depth adjustment so as to cover all sides of the coating;

Fourth Phase:

• Now proceed with the grouting of the joints and the heads of the screws and affix the micro-perforated paper on the corners, bending it with your fingers at 90 degrees after having moistened it;

• Then wait for the grout to dry and if necessary apply a second coat (see article on grouting and follow the instructions);

• Sand everything with a manual grinder, removing the excess putty present and flattening any unevenness in the work;

Fifth Phase:

• Now all that remains is to decorate and paint the fireplace cladding that has just been created;

• For more ideas or ideas on how to cover the newly created structure, we recommend reading the specific article on our website.

• Tools and materials:

• High quality corrugated cardboard

• 4x4 all-over cover

• Ruler (tape measure or folding wooden ruler)

• Construction pencil

• Marker

• Scissors for aluminum

• Punching pliers

• Plumb line

• Professional laser

• Drill driver with depth adjustment

• Professional cutter

• Hacksaw for plasterboard

• Manual grinder

• Magnetic level with vials

• SDS 6x110 drill bit

• Brush

• Receptacle

•Ladder

• Steel plugs screw and washer diameter 8, length 4 cm

• Teks 4,2x13 flat head screws

• Black phosphated self-tapping screws 3.5x25 nail point

• Aluminum “upright” profiles

• Aluminum “guide” profiles

• Rock wool or other insulation material.

• “Red” plasterboard sheets or specific sheets for fire resistance works.

• Specific filler

• Paint or finish coating

• Steel expansion plugs with a diameter of 6.

• Double-sided adhesive tapes resistant to high temperatures.

"Deepening"

The operation of isolating the bio-fireplace is essential.

To carry out it correctly, insulating material must be interposed between the bio-fireplace and the plasterboard plate of the coating just created (in correspondence with l the internal groove of the profiles).

There are different types of insulating material on sale, each with their own performance capabilities. For this type of work, rock wool is certainly the most popular, even if in recent years it has been replaced with even more resistant and easy to work synthetic materials.

The importance of carrying out this work with the utmost attention will be essential to avoid that, with continued use of the bio-fireplace, dangerous and unsightly cracks can be generated in the coating due to thermal changes due to the heat produced.

Thanks to the new generation plasterboard sheets, capable of withstanding up to 900 degrees in some cases, many believe it is enough to apply the sheets without insulating material.

The danger of the intervention, however, suggests the utmost attention and, therefore, it is strongly recommended to insert an insulation material of at least 2 or 3 cm.

ATTENTION: as this type of intervention is very delicate, the advice is to contact a highly specialized company that can help you.

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