1. First we create a metal perimeter structure on which we will then fix the plasterboard sheets:

• trace the guidelines with a pencil, remembering to also mark the position of the door compartment if provided. On the break on the ground of the guide, place two vertical profiles and a cross beam at the top to indicate the presence of the door.

• check the exact correspondence of the traces on the ceiling and on the ground with a lead wire (or with the aid of a laser) so that the wall is perfectly straight.

• apply adhesive insulating strips (to avoid thermal and acoustic bridges) on the back of the profiles before fixing them to the floor, wall and ceiling.

• fix the metal structure to the floor and ceiling with expansion plugs at a distance of approximately 60 cm from each other. Note: for the profile on the ground we can also fix it with a high-strength double-sided tape if we do not want to damage the floor below.

2. Now let's build our metal mesh by inserting vertical profiles (uprights) inside those previously placed on the perimeter (guides):

• fit the uprights in the guides at a distance of 60 cm, check with a magnetic level with bubble vials (or with the aid of a laser) that the uprights are perfectly vertical so as to obtain a plumb wall. Note: the uprights should all be directed from the same side.

• only after having ascertained the exact position, fix the uprights to the guides with suitable self-drilling flat head screws (teks screws) or use a manual punching machine for 7mm sheet metal profiles necessary to assemble the two metal profiles by punching.

• the first and last upright must be fixed to any side walls with expansion anchors at a distance of approximately 60 cm from each other, taking care to fix one close to the floor and one close to the ceiling.

3. Now let's start fixing the plasterboard sheets to the metal structure:

• put spacers of about 1 cm on the ground on which we will place the plasterboard.

• then position the slab in contact with the structure.

• fix the first plasterboard sheet with black phosphated self-tapping screws and screwdriver with torque adjustment or depth limiter, making sure that the distance between the screws is about 30 cm from each other and about 1 cm from the edge of the sheet same.

• continue in this way along the entire length of the metal structure created, so as to evenly fill the wall. NB: if the last slab is longer than the metal structure, cut it with a professional cutter and file any edges with a file planer so that the edge of the slab is perfectly in line with the metal profile.

• now arrange, if necessary, any acoustic or thermal insulating panels inside the concave part of the metal structure and, if necessary, carefully cover the entire surface of the wall itself to obtain a high-performance technical result.

• the cavity in the wall is ideal for installing, above all, systems and conduits. Any openings for sockets and switches can be made with a hole cutter for a drill.

4. We carry out the same operation on the opposite side of the dividing wall following the indications of point 3. Note: the insulating material must remain in the middle.

5. Now let's move on to the grouting phase:

• grouting the margins on the ceiling and on the ground, grouting the joints of the slabs and the heads of the screws.

• after drying, sand the whole with abrasive paper and try to make the surface uniform.

6. Apply a strip of self-adhesive mesh tape to the horizontal and vertical joints along the entire length of the joint.

7. Above the strip of self-adhesive net tape, apply a little (small amount) of plastic wall putty. We must spread it well with a spatula.

8. With the spatula we still pass a little grout, in an attempt to level everything and make the surface perfectly uniform.

9. On the surface we spend an hour a slightly damp sponge.

10. Let dry and then shave the small imperfections with the trowel.


Here is our plasterboard wall, i.e. a separating element inside a large room that we want to separate into two rooms.





Slabs plasterboard thickness 12.5 mm


Bi / mono adhesive tape 50 mm thick


Profiles in galvanizedess sheet metal h 50 mm

Level with bubble vials

Black phosphated self-tapping screws 3,5x25mm.

Shears for cutting sheet metal

Expansion dowels 6x30

File planer

Teks screws 4,2x13mm


Electrical boxes for outlet


Specific self-adhesive net tape


Spatula for grouting

Wall putty

Screwdriver drill with torque adjustment or depth limiter

Thermal insulation panels

Cup cutter for drill

Sound absorbing panels





Shaving trowel






ATTENTION: being this type of intervention very delicate, the advice is to contact a highly specialized company that can help you.


Did you need this information?

Share them with anyone you want on social media.