COLUMN GUIDE IN PLASTERBOARD
Here are easy step-by-step instructions for making a plasterboard column:
Preparation and measurements:
• Lay on the ground, to protect the flooring around the area where the column is positioned, corrugated cardboard and cover sheets or, alternatively, felt cloth;
• Outline on the ground with a construction pencil, using a professional tape measure, a circle representing the diameter of the column. Note: it will be necessary to take into account the number of capitals to be inserted in the column and the dimensions of the base to properly evaluate the total width that the finished work will occupy;
• Using a lead wire or simply a laser, bring the circle just made back to the ceiling and draw it with a construction pencil;
Column "Skeleton":
• Position the base of the plaster column on the ground with nylon dowels to screw @ 6, which is made up of two metal semicircles to be mounted close together to make a perfect circle. Note: if you don't want to ruin the flooring, you can use double-sided tape;
• Carry out the same operation on the ceiling by fixing the two metal semicircles. Note: use 3.5x25 phosphated nail screws in the case of an already existing plasterboard false ceiling, use steel dowels @ 8 in the case of other types of ceilings;
• Fasten 4 uprights (facing each other) in the internal perimeter of the metal circle mounted on the ceiling, with 4.2x13 teks screws, drill bit or with a punching machine;
• Carry out the same operation in the inner perimeter of the rim on the ground with the end part of the uprights;
• With a magnetic bubble level, make sure that the 4 uprights are level and therefore perfectly vertical;
Coverage of the "skeleton":
• Take the ready-made module of the plasterboard half-column and position it in such a way that the two ends perfectly match with two of the 4 previously positioned uprights;
• Screw the module to the uprights with 3.5x25 nail tip phosphated screws. Note: make sure that half of the upright remains uncovered so that the other half-column can be applied to it;
• Carry out the same operation in the center of the half column in correspondence with the other hidden upright;
• In the event that the half-column just applied does not fully cover the height of the skeleton made, proceed with measuring with a professional tape measure the missing part to be covered;
• Using the measuring tape, record the measurement just taken on another half-column ready module and mark the exact point where to cut the module with a construction pencil;
• Proceed to cut the module with a "saw" from wood with hardened teeth;
• Insert a metal semicircle extension into the internal perimeter of the half-column previously fixed to the uprights;
• Screw the metal semicircle to the semicolon with 3.5x25 nail tip phosphated screws. Note: make sure that half of the metal extension remains uncovered so that the other half-column can be applied to it;
• Take the module of the half-column previously cut and position it on top of the one already fixed to the uprights;
• With the help of a screwdriver drill with depth adjustment, fix this second module to the metal semicircle extension and to the uprights with phosphated screws, 3.5x25 nail tip;
Closing the "skeleton":
• Operate in the opposite way for the other side of the column, or fix the entire module of the half-column in plasterboard to the upper part of the structure and for the lower part to calculate the missing half-column and perform the operations already mentioned above;
• In this way the column will close completely having staggered joints that guarantee greater sealing;
Base and Capital:
• Now that the column has closed, the base and the capital will be applied. These two elements are made up of two perfectly identical parts and will be placed at the base and top of the column;
• Take the elements that make up the base and place them in the lower part of the column with adhesive and black phosphated screws, 3.5x35 nail tip;
• Take the elements that make up the capital and place them in the upper part of the column with adhesive and black phosphated screws with a 3.5x35 nail tip;
Grouting and smoothing:
• Place the semi-adhesive gauze net on all joints;
• Now proceed, with a professional spatula, to grouting all the joints and the heads of the screws;
• Then wait for the grout to dry and if necessary pass a second coat (see article on grouting and follow the instructions);
• Sand everything with a manual grinder by removing the excess grout present and flattening any discrepancies in the work;
• Prepare the ras special doors and with a professional trowel pass it all around the column in a homogeneous way;
Decoration and fantasy:
• Now that the column is ready we can pass a layer of fixative with a brush;
• All that remains is to proceed to decorate and paint the newly created column leaving room for imagination.
CAUTION:
Plasterboard columns can be made with or without base and / or capitals.
In this case the plasterboard column will be easier to make as the ceiling to ground measurement will also be the size of the column itself and no complicated calculations will have to be made taking into account the number of capitals to be inserted in the column and the dimensions of the base to evaluate well the depth and the total height.
Curiosity:
The bases and capitals on the market are of different types and materials.
For ease of processing, we recommend using those made of polystyrene.
For a greater guarantee of durability, however, we recommend using plaster ones.
Tools and materials:
• High quality corrugated cardboard
• 4x4 cover cloth
• Felt cloth
• Meter (measuring tape or folding wooden meter)
• 5-point laser and square
• Lead wire
• Construction pencil
•Felt tip pen
• Scissors for aluminum
• Punching tool
• Screwdriver drill with depth adjustment
• Professional cutter
• Hacksaw for plasterboard
• Wood saw
• Assembly glue
• Manual grinder
•Sandpaper
• Magnetic level with vials
• SDS drill bit 6x110
• SDS drill bit 8x110
• Professional spatula with insert
• Trowel 28x12
• Brush
• Bowl
•Ladder
• Half-column module in plasterboard
• Plasterboard capital module
• Plasterboard basic module
• Double sided tape
• Teks screws 4,2x13 flat head
• Black phosphated self-tapping screws with 3.5x25 nail tip
• Black phosphated self-tapping screws with 3.5x35 nail tip
• "upright" profiles in aluminum
• Specific grout
• Overlay
• Painting or finishing coating
• Steel expansion bolts with diameter 6.
ATTENTION: being this type of intervention very delicate, the advice is to contact a highly specialized company that can help you.
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